Are Fashion Designer Roles Going Extinct?

An opinion piece By Sarah Schwennsen

11.04.2020

“I see how much the fashion industry has changed and how companies think they come a dime a dozen. I've been working in the fashion for 30 years and naturally there are changes. There are in every industry. But this industry is becoming uninspiring...”

“Designers have always had to wear multiple hats”

The pandemic has revealed many issues within the fashion industry and designers have taken a hard hit. The role of a fashion designer is changing. I find it fascinating how little money companies now want to pay for college educated fashion designers but yet, the expectations have increased. Retailers want someone who can do 3 jobs for the price of a single low-wage position. It's extremely discouraging and companies really need to evaluate this.

Designers have always had to wear multiple hats. We are creative people but we also need to understand how fashion as a business works. We have to be sales people in order to present our ideas to the merchant teams. Even if it involves convincing them to test a new color that may be out of their comfort zone. We do our research. We analyze the runway shows, we look at a million instagram images and blogs a day. We go to art museums, we attend cultural events, and we do anything that is going to inspire us to design great products.

“We are always required to do a project for almost every interview. It doesn't matter how many years of experience you have.”

We also have to have a merchant side in us because we need to understand what is selling and why, as well as how to offer up new styles that will be perfect for the customer. In addition to this, we are product developers. There are many companies who don't even have this role. We need to understand costs and how to make cute styles without over-designing. We know what our vendors capabilities are and what we can and cannot afford. We also have to be stylists - in order to sell our ideas we need to put together the looks so we can then show it to everyone involved in the company. Designers need more credibility. In every company that I've worked for, the merchant always has the clout. I understand they are the ones writing the P.O.'s but that partnership needs to be appreciated.

As designers we have to be proficient in a huge variety of software programs- Adobe CC, PLM, Microsoft office, and also be able to illustrate. But seriously, how many companies use illustrations? I know they are beautiful to see but they are rarely used.

Fashion Projects and the Interview Process

We are always required to do a project for almost every interview. It doesn't matter how many years of experience you have. They want to see if you can understand the aesthetic. It drives me crazy. I remember one time (years ago) I was interviewing with Abercrombie. This was when we didn't use computers and sketching was done by hand on vellum with rapidograph pens. We colored them in with markers, cut out the mini bodies and spray mounted them on boards. I did that for their boy's division and had to send it ahead of time. I was so excited to be picked up at the airport and taken to the company headquarters.

“I made a decision not to do projects anymore. If they want me they will hire me. My experience should be enough.”

I sat and I sat and I sat. 90 minutes later they told me the director was ready to see me. I saw my project in the corner still wrapped up - he hadn't ever looked at it. This was devastating to me. It felt so disrespectful to all of that time that I spent on it.

I made a decision not to do projects anymore. If they want me they will hire me. My experience should be enough. Trust me, I've designed kids, men's, women's, juniors, denim, outerwear, swim - the list could go on and on. If that doesn't speak for itself then I'm not the right candidate for them. Most of the time I truly believe it's down to the insecurity of the hiring manager. If they can't make a decision based on the type of person you are and the previous jobs that you've had then that's on them.

It’s always interesting interviewing with the HR person first, who seems to know very little about the position or what it really pertains. How are they the ones screening if they don't know anything about design? Don’t get me wrong, I'm not saying they are all like that at all. However I just had an experience recently where I was asked what adobe illustrator was and what I did on it. I wanted to say "how are you determining if I am moving forward or not?" The process really needs an overhaul.

The biggest concern for anyone starting out in their career is that many companies now think they can have the merchants design the line and have sourcing develop it. They want to do more with less. In my years of experience working with merchants and merchandising teams they have their own skill sets and as much as they want to be designers they don't want to push the envelope. They tend to be more safe and look at last year's numbers. Yes, there are some rare ones that have the courage to think ahead. However it's always the designer's job to push forward and the merchant holds back. It's the push and pull that usually makes for a great balance. There is a reason why we all have our roles and need to stay in our lanes.

“People look at your resume and assume you are a dinosaur and won't be able to design ‘cool’ stuff for their customer.”

Ageism

Ageism is another issue in this industry. It seems that older people in fashion end up going into real estate or shift to sales. I don't think people realize that just because someone is older doesn't mean that one becomes frumpy and has no taste - or stamina! I remember one of my shopping trips when I was with some younger colleagues and they couldn't keep up. They were tired and wanted to go back to the hotel. They hated carrying all of the bags. Seriously, from my experience the more senior people know how to get it done and shop until the stores close. I may be older but I am more clued up on what's happening in fashion than a lot of people, but it doesn't matter. People look at your resume and assume you are a dinosaur and won't be able to design ‘cool’ stuff for their customer.

Trust

Trust has been something that is lacking in this industry. I prefer to work with people who are direct and not passive aggressive, and those who make decisions and stick with it. My very first boss challenged me and pushed me out of my comfort zone. I loved it even though it scared me so much. I wanted to prove to him that I could do the job, no matter what he threw my way. It was amazing how much I learned from that experience since he trusted me. He knew I'd make mistakes but also knew that I'd learn from that.

“I know so many extremely talented designers who are being wasted or over- looked because of not having the exact right experience.”

The Future of Fashion

I feel disappointed in this industry and thinking about what's next. I know so many extremely talented designers who are being wasted or over-looked because of not having the exact right experience. I think companies need to reconsider when evaluating what a designer does. They are an important part of the organization and the stores are looking stale. Think about that when hiring the next designer. For those companies who think it's OK paying a Design Director $75K or an associate $15/hour you should reconsider. You certainly aren't paying for the talent and experience that these candidates have.

Good luck to my fellow design peeps! It's rough out there and we may all need to find new careers.

And for companies who are hiring- think about how much talent and expertise designers have and that it's not just drawing pretty styles.