Drastic Evolution:

Exploring 20 years of change in the fashion industry

Claire Caines, previously a design manager for globally known department stores House of Fraser and Debenhams, has been in the fashion industry for over 20 years. And boy has the industry changed during that time! With BHS and Bay Trading- (a personal fave in my teens) amongst other retailers on her resume, Claire has witnessed first hand the evolution of the UK high street and fast fashion. 

We wanted to get her take on how the fashion world has changed and her predictions for the industry’s future.

Claire, over your 20 years in the fashion industry how have you seen it evolve?

The industry has changed so much over the past 20 years since I’ve been in it. When I started, the high street wasn’t the same place it is now. There were only a few big players and Topshop was one of the most fashionable brands available. Retailers like H&M, New Look and Primark weren’t the giants they are today. Brands such as Zara had been around since the 70s but they didn’t arrive on the UK high street until the end of the 90s. There’s just so much choice now compared to what there was.

Trends

Trends on the shop floor were a lot clearer, but now it all just looks the same. Everyone uses the same resources for inspiration - all the same trend forecasting and fashion sites. There were only 4 collections a year: Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter. But with the weather changing as much as it has, and the amount of people who travel increasing, most consumers have shifted to ‘buy now, wear now’, and don’t buy ahead of time as much. Collections are more frequent and transitional now so that retailers don’t lose out with the interchangeable weather- especially in the UK.

Catwalks weren’t as important to look to for inspiration either back then and trends were easier to find. Once you decided on a trend you would go for it in a big way, and that’s how everyone would dress that season. It’s not like that anymore, there are so many different fashion tribes and a huge increase in individual style. I really believe retailers are scared to have their own identity now whereas in the past they stuck to their own unique DNA. 

Product is still important but customers want more, they want to invest in a lifestyle. There are so many ways to buy now too - websites, social media, emails and subscriptions. The brands that have a strong identity, online presence and constantly moving with the times are more likely to survive. 

Cost

Fashion started to get cheaper too, and brands would try and undercut their competitors (they still do) to redirect sales. The result of this is you’re then squeezing suppliers, which naturally reduces the quality of the product in the end. For example if Next were selling a basic tee for £5, then a competitor would try and squeeze their supplier for a £3 equivalent. With companies like Primark and supermarket brands selling tees for £1 and £2. It’s hard for everyone to compete with each other.

Social Media

Social media has dramatically changed the industry over the past 20 years. When I first started out, Facebook and Instagram didn’t even exist. Having a website was also a new thing. Whereas now you might see something on Instagram you like and you’re one click away from purchasing it. People want an easy purchase. Even the older generations have become accustomed to it.

Emails and pop-ups have also increased, we all get so many emails from different brands now selling us new products on a daily basis. As a result of this, we saw the introduction of the web and social teams- becoming one of the most important components of any brand.   

When the influencer culture first started, I believe their association with fashion brands was more genuine, they truly loved the product. But now, they are approached by so many different brands and get paid so much money, you can’t be sure if they even like the product they’re advertising. 

Travel

When I first started, I used to go on work trips every season. I visited the likes of India, Hong Kong and did shopping in the US, and Europe for inspiration. At that time there were so many new individual brands we hadn’t heard of emerging across the world that we could only find by visiting these countries. Flea markets were also a great source of inspiration. We would get so much out of going on these trips, constantly gathering new information. The travel and shopping budgets were a lot higher too. In the last few years they’ve been slashed more and more. 

As these changes took place over the years, did you notice an increasing amount of waste and consumption in the industry?

As a result of our regular shopping trips, the office was full of bought samples. We would hold sample sales as often as we could to get rid of the clothing we no longer needed but we would always be left with so many. Whatever we had left would often go to charity but the amount we had was overwhelming. It was really wasteful, especially since some of the clothes would be cut just for a color standard and then discarded.  

There was a huge consumption of paper, before we transferred to digital copies of trend packs and information, we would print out so many packs and inspirational images. We’d have to store binders of sketches and information dating years back too.

I really struggled on factory visits, seeing first hand the vast difference between rich and poor. Visiting the factories was always really eye opening, watching how everything was done. I remember watching a man doing lab dips, sitting there with a huge bucket of dye and another guy standing in these huge buckets of dye with dyed blue legs stomping his feet to get the fabric moving. It was crazy. Then seeing the toxic dyes ending up in the rivers too. It was unbelievable.

Now there are so many improvements on different processes, a lot of brands are making the effort to change. Even changing printing processes, looking at natural dyes and digital printing instead of alternatives that use a lot of water wastage.

Have you felt encouraged by the increasing amount of sustainable and ethical brands that have appeared in the past few years?

Yes, it’s been such a positive thing, it just needs to be out there even more. Sustainability isn’t always affordable but it's so good for the environment being part of the full cycle. People are slowly moving away from fast fashion but I think you need to educate people more, the general public needs to know more about it. I think the younger generation are a lot more passionate about it.

How do you think the fashion industry/retailers can improve for a more sustainable and ethical future?

There are different governing bodies and nonprofits that support retailers in becoming more sustainable these days. So there’s really no excuse. They focus on different areas such as plastics, viscose and cotton. At one of my previous companies we used Better Cotton Initiative, Global Fashion agenda and Circular Commitment, Fast Forward, and Canopy to name a few. It really helps if you have a leader in sustainability guiding your company.

Do you think the average customer is growing in awareness of how retailers operate / do retailers need to shift their marketing?

I don’t think a lot of the general public have a clue as to how the fashion process works and what’s involved. There’s this huge misconception that as a designer, you’re up in the head office sewing the garments yourself. Unfortunately it’s only when huge disasters such as the Rana Plaza factory collapse or news reports on factories in Leicester happen that it grabs people’s attention and forces them to become more aware. I don’t think the majority of people know where their clothes are made.

The world and the fashion industry are going through a hard time right now. How do you see the COVID-19 pandemic affecting the fashion industry in the future?

I think currently, the general public are still scared of going out to the shops like they used to. This means online has become an even more essential part of the business.

There may be an increase in smaller independent brands rising up as many unemployed professionals from the fashion industry turn their talents and skills to starting their own businesses. This could benefit the industry in the long run with more creativity and individuality in the market.

Claire’s Trend Predictions for 2021

Claire gave us a sneak peak into her trend predictions for SS21, see below for one of her boards. The full trend feature will be out next month!

Lounge Lover SS21 is 70s inspired with a modern twist. This chic lounge trend provides us with new ways to dress up and retain that luxury but comfortable feel in the home.

Think paisley and scarf prints, lots of volume, pleats, cut out details and clean lines. Combined with pale blues, mints and softer shades back with black, white and neutrals.