The Power Of The Consumer

How we as consumers can make small changes with powerful & influential consequences.

By Dr Alana M James

The world is facing a climate emergency. A phrase that Greta Thunberg, a 17-year-old student and environmental activist from Sweden is insisting we use to describe the current global situation. Her fight for climate justice is driven by the unrest between humanity and nature, with a sustained period of overuse resulting in an urgent call to help prevent irrevocable damage to our planet. More recently, David Attenborough has released his witness statement, calling on us all to rewild the place we all call home, protecting our fragile planet for future generations. As custodians of the global eco-system, humans are both the cause of the problem, and the source of the solution to enable long-term behavioural change for the collective good of the world we live in.  

Fashion’s Contribution

Fashion is the second most polluting industry in the world, second only to oil, a finite resource on which the production of textiles relies heavily not only as a source of energy but as the raw material for many synthetic fibres. The shift from the predominant use of natural to synthetic fibres has contributed to the growth of the oil industry since the 1920’s, when Nylon, acrylic and polyester were first utilised for fashion applications. The increased use of these oil-derived fibres in conjunction with rising consumption levels, have caused the relationship between fashion, humans and the environment to significantly change over time. 

Despite changes in the levels of consumption and material resources, the reliance on the earth’s resources has not waivered, with the development of the value market sector and the fast fashion business model enabling further growth. The production of textile products contributes more to climate change than international aviation and shipping combined and that is without the consideration of social impact that occurs at the expense of humans working in the manufacture of fashion products.

Founder of Fashion Revolution, Orsola De Castro believes that the most sustainable clothing is said to be that which we already own, meaning that the use of existing clothing prevents the use of virgin materials and energy. This prevention of garments going to landfill however requires alternative mindsets and methods to enable consumers to engage in a meaningful way. Furthermore, education and knowledge are also needed to again help facilitate this shift towards the preservation of clothing, in preference to a continual cycle of consumption and disposal. 

“The rental of fashion has escalated rapidly in the US market, with companies such as Rent the Runway being valued at $1billion in March 2019.“

The Need for Change 

The linear model of fashion consumption, sometimes referred to as the take, make, dispose model, is outdated and in need of reform, moving towards a more considered and slower approach to garment production and use. 300,000 tonnes of garments end up in household waste every year, indicating that consumers either don’t know or don’t care about the impact the garments are having on the environment. But what can be done differently to change this?

Support for alternative consumption models, such as the sharing economy has been suggested as a priority, which would see consumers become custodians of clothing rather than permanent owners. The rental of fashion has escalated rapidly in the US market, with companies such as Rent the Runway being valued at $1billion in March 2019. This model replicates the rush experienced by consumers when purchasing new clothing, without the associated social and environmental costs. The success of the rental or access economy has been evidenced previously across multiple market sectors such as film and television through platforms such as Netflix, and in the music industry with services such as Spotify. 

This need for change is being tentatively acknowledged by fashion brands and retailers, with conservative action being adopted across multiple market levels. Yet it is to be questioned if fashion brands alone have the power to create change, or if consumers also have the power to drive forward action. Acting almost as a middle man, the fashion brand is in a unique and powerful position, having influence over the manufacturing supply chain, but also over the choices made by the consumer. Some companies, such as Patagonia and Selfridges for example, are beginning to harness this power, using it to become more sustainable in their everyday business practices. However, the success of this action also relies heavily on the people purchasing the clothing, the consumers like you and me to trust a brand to make the right decisions for the future of the planet. 

Taking Consumer Action

Despite the retailer being in a powerful position, the consumer too has influence over the choices that they make with their fashion products and the impact these actions have from a social and environmental perspective. Through a series of changes in behaviour, consumers can begin to make small lifestyle changes in order to help create a positive sustainable impact.

Four key factors could begin to facilitate the urgent change needed in an otherwise outdated model that is no longer fit for purpose:

Towards a Responsible Future

Responsible shopping, ownership and disposal are all vital considerations for consumers when exercising their power to create sustainable change for the future of the fashion industry. A new active generation of consumers who are committed to actioning this change have been labelled as prosumers, as they have more influence and ability to construct change than ever before. The role of the consumer is no longer limited to being merely a passive user, but now requires them to become an engaged investor in the quest towards responsible systemic change. Individuals can no longer wait for brands alone to take-action, small adjustments in everyday behaviour can be crucial in reducing the future environmental impact of fashion.  

This article is part of a series written by Alana with a new sustainability issue discussed each month. Next up: Is education the key to a more sustainable future for fashion?